India pt. 3: Jaipur & Agra

I returned to Delhi from Pushkar on the 16th of Jan. My cousin Bethany, one of the youngest members of the Chang family, would be joining me for the second half of my trip.

Before her arrival to Delhi, I recognized that this would be an opportunity for us to really get to know each other. Traveling does do that, after all. I also knew that I’d have to make several adjustments to my traveling style.

With Bethany joining in on the adventure, I was thrilled to be able to share the experience with a cousin, a younger sister. I also recognized, however, that this came with a sense of duty and responsibility to ensure her safety and that I couldn’t just do whatever crazy thing I might normally throw myself into. I vowed to share my love for travel and discovery with Bethany, but I had to remember that it wasn’t just me on this trip.

What better way to put theory into practice than an experience halfway across the world!?

Just in Time for Jaipur

Bethany and I had about a week to explore before heading to our parents’ hometown for Chinese New Year. In the wee hours of the morning Jan. 18, we stepped outside of our aunt and uncle’s flat and waited for our car to take us to our pick-up point. We were heading to Jaipur by bus.

Two Uber cancellations later, our time was running short. Through the early morning mist and dim lighting of street lamps, we hustled to the main road to try and find an alternative. It felt like an episode of the Amazing Race!

We approached several parked motorbike taxis and knocked on the metal frame, hoping that the sleeping lump in the back seat would show some signs of life under the wool covers. The first driver was out cold.

Rushing across the street, the second driver thankfully awoke with our knocking and the sound of our voices. Even though we expressed that we were in a hurry, the driver took his sweet time to wake up, wash his face, rinse his mouth, wipe down his seat, and dress himself warmly… Every second that passed was agony.

At last, he revved up the engine and off we went. Zooming down the half occupied roads of Delhi, the cool wind on my face and filling my lungs, I focused all my energy on breathing and reassuring myself and Bethany that we’d make it.

The next thing I knew, the driver had slowed to a stop. We hopped out from the backseat, handed him the fare, and boarded our bus with minutes to spare.

Hostel Life-101

Arriving to our hostel in the Pink City, it reminded me of my days backpacking through Europe; the dorms were spacious, clean, equipped with individual lockers, and the hostel itself had a huge kitchen, dining area, and hiply decorated common room. For an introduction to backpacker life, this was a fabulous choice.

Over breakfast our first morning, we met our friend, Pau, from Spain. He had begun his travels alone since separating from a few friends and was slowly heading North towards Nepal. During our 3-day stay, Pau became a part the crew; we went around Jaipur together, sharing auto (rickshaw) fares, meals, and life stories.

Jaipur Sunset

One of the area’s most beloved spots to watch the sunset is at Nahargarh Fort. Typical of the high season, when we arrived at the viewpoint, there was barely any room to stand. Luckily, an advantage of being petite is that I’m able to squeeze myself into spaces, rarely having to fear that I’m blocking someone else’s view. I wiggled my way into a great spot and watched as the gorgeous Indian sun fell behind a thick layer of clouds.

I could have cursed, I could have let disappointment take over, but instead, I found the anti-climatic ending to our whole day quite funny. We had come specifically for the sunset, but whether or not it would be visible, was something totally out of our control.

Bethany, Pau, and I made our way back towards the entrance of the fort. Attempting to make the most of our visit, we took a more scenic route along the fort’s walls.

It wasn’t long until we came across a breach, where the crumbling stone gave way to what to me, was one of the most stunning views of the city (and in my opinion, of the entire trip).

The colourful lights and music from a wedding celebration taking place down below; a call to prayer being announced over a megaphone; the distant sounds of traffic, and the gentle glow of everyday Jaipur life as day turned into evening. I’m not sure what it was exactly, but I felt like I could stay there for hours, just watching, listening, and feeling.. a sensation of transcendence and awe that I still remember so vividly today.

Agra & The Taj

Hostel Life-200

For the equivalent of $3 CAD a night, a short distance from the Taj Mahal, above average reviews, and what seemed like a great community of people, Freedom Hostel was my kind of place! It was certainly a downgrade from our accommodations in Jaipur, but I hoped that the contrast in experience would provide just a little taste of a different lifestyle.

One of my fave pictures of our trip is of Bethany, warming up as she sits cross-legged on a straw chair, sipping a cup of tea on the bare-bone open terrace, graffiti overhead.

A Mystical, Magical Experience

Compared to Jaipur, the air in Agra felt fresher, the streets seemed cleaner, and much less chaotic. It was a nice change.

As Bethany and I planned our visit to the Taj Mahal, the guys running the hostel told us that it wouldn’t be worth waking up at the crack of dawn because it would be covered in mist. We took advantage of the extra hour of rest that morning, but decided to head out early anyway to beat the crowds.

When we made it into the grounds, the guys had been absolutely right; the Taj was covered in a thick layer of white. We carefully made our way through the mist towards the mausoleum. It was as if we’d entered a different plane of existence, like in a dream, and as we inched our way forward, the Taj slowly emerged from the clouds.

Entering the presence of this monumental expression of love, the ivory-marbled wonder, shrouded in a veil of white, was an experience I can only describe as mystical and magical. I bathed in its energy and I soaked it all in. Before the throngs of tourists arrived at midday, I knew that what we’d lived that morning was something entirely unique and personal.

We were 2 sisters on a trip, here together to share something that only we would remember. It paved the way for awaited us, when we would arrive to the birthplace of our parents and discover pieces of ourselves that we didn’t know existed.

Up next: Arriving to Kolkata and paying our respects to our great-grandparents’.